By Auralex, USA.
Temporarily Fastening Auralex Products To Your Wall
If you're looking for a way to temporarily fasten your Studiofoam or other Auralex products, try using T-pins (available at fabric/dept. stores). T-pins will support your treatment while the Tubetak or Foamtak bonds. When adhesives can't be used or when you need to temporarily mount the treatment to fine 'tune' your room, T-pins provide an easy solution. Traditional fasteners (screws, nails, tacks, etc.) also work in many situations.
To cut your Studiofoam, simply use an electric carving knife for custom designs, a finishing touch, super-smooth edges and a REALLY cool installation! Let the knife do the work!
- Hold the can approximately 12-18'' from the Studiofoam or room surface and shake the can from side to side to yield a ''spider web'' pattern.
- For the strongest bond: apply the Foamtak to both the room surface and the back of the Studiofoam panels, allow 45 seconds to tack, and apply the Studiofoam to the surface. For a more temporary bond, apply the Foamtak to only the Studiofoam or the room surface.
- Storing the Foamtak can upside down between applications may allow a more consistent spray pattern.
- Use the Studiofoam box lids as spray guards for a cleaner installation.
- Stacking two Studiofoam boxes may yield a convenient work surface.
- Lay the panel on a flat surface, with the pointed edges of the wedge just at the edge of the surface, for best support.
- Mark a point on the first and last wedge, the desired distance back from the ends. The suggested setback is equal to the distance between wedge tips.
- Place a straight edge across the tips of the wedges, from mark to mark, and lightly mark this point on the tip of each wedge. A fine tip marker works well for this; keep the marks as small as possible. Don't ''squish'' the foam by pressing down too hard.
- Align the electric knife at an angle, with the blade going from the mark on the tip of the wedge to the point where the wedge meets the solid part of the foam (this can be visualized as a lined all the way down the panel, at the bottom apex of each triangular cut.
- Keeping the knife at the same angle as you start, cut slowly through the first wedge, traveling straight across horizontally toward the next wedge. Guide the knife by keeping a straight cut at the bottom toward the next bottom apex.
- When you finish the first wedge, pause to make sure the knife is once again aligned with the mark at the top tip and the bottom apex.
- Continue through the remaining wedges; take your time and let the knife do the work, keeping a straight line at the bottom and staying right on the marks on the tips.
- The secret is patience, a steady hand - and a smooth, straight motion from end to end.
- Latex-based paints should be used. If you have any doubts about your paint product of choice, please test on the back (or in the cavity) of a unit.
- If you intend to paint T'Fusors a solid color, first use a primer. Note: if you are using spray cans, expect to use one can per T'Fusor.
- Great results may be achieved with stone simulation spray paints (Make-It-Stone for example). Once again, for solid coverage expect one can per T'Fusor (although you do not need to prime).
- Preferred methods- a light dusting or fleck with the stone type paint, achieved by holding the can approximately 18'' away from the T'Fusor and consistently waiving the spray pattern. A more solid coverage may be achieved by purchasing two slightly different colors of the stone paint and implementing light ''dusting'' layers. This technique yields a very textured look and will require approximately two cans of paint per four T'Fusors.